Rhine River Valley, Germany

Rhine River Valley, Germany

TOP THREE ASPECTS OF TRAVELING:


1) Food/Drink
2) Architecture
3) History


I dont know, I just felt like listing those--I digress.

Don't you hate it when you're walking down a long corridor in a station, mall, or something, and there's a guy in front of you slow enough that you want to pass him, but fast and crafty enough that he makes it hard to do so.  Ugh, fuck me, it happened like 8 times today!

Anyways, thank goodness, I salvaged this trip to western Germany with a cruise down the Rhine river; a medieval playground of kings and castles.

The Middle Rhine--from Koblenz to Mainz--was declared a UNESCO heritage site about ten years ago, and it is seriously beautiful.  Also, I lucked out, as the weather today is a stark contrast to previous days, at 72 and sunny.  The 60 miles of the stretch has over 40 castles, and is dotted with little wine villages specializing in their taste bud twisting Rieslings.  Luckily, as white wine makes me feel a bit light in the loafers, local beers are just as popular.

Also, and I'm reluctant to say this, apparently I'm the only person under 50 interested in cruising down the Rhine.  I can't tell you how many times I hid my head in my hands.  There were active seniors with extra-supportive-seat bicycles, geriatrics with those handy hiking canes, and old folks reliving the far gone romance of their youth.  Jesus, what have I done!!

However, I cruised for a bit, hopped off, hopped on, and had these tiny little towns and castles all to myself.

TIP OF THE DAY:  Again, try not to freak out the old people.  Pretend like you're in some special exhibit at the zoo--no sudden movements.


LISTENING:  For Marcin Ostromecki of the Harp Irish Pub.

Cologne, Germany

Cologne, Germany

So, I'm a ways away from Berlin, but I'd like to give some mention to the mother of all German street foods, the currywurst.  The recipe is simple enough--sliced pork sausage, classic ketchup, and the go-to ingredient, some generous dashes of curry powder.  There are stands for this everywhere in Berlin--beneath train tracks, within stations, on residential streets, next to monuments--and I tried it three times.  Each stand has it's little spin, with subtle variations in sausage, sauce, or amount.  But, generally, the philosophy is consistent, and It's a real joy picking at your currywurst and watching the active Berliners stroll by.

Before moving on, let's highlight some things about Berlin:

1) You can still pretty much smoke anywhere

2)  Berlin is probably the second biggest Turkish city after Istanbul

3)  Not yet been to Amsterdam, but I've never seen a city with more bicycles

4)  David Hasselfhoff is indeed a big deal here

5)  By area, Berlin is nine times larger than Paris

Alright, Cologne, and a trip to one of the first German cities.  Cologne was originally a Roman settlement dating to 50 AD, and has since always played a key role on the strategic Rhine River and within the growing Holy Roman Empire.  The real treat here is the Cologne Cathedral, which is second to only St. Peter's in size, and dwarfs the surrounding neighborhoods.  Outside of that, well, there's not much.  Cologne is known for its brew pubs, and there are an unusual amount of them.  However, I don't think I'll be here long


So, I spent an unusual amount of time experimenting with the picture box, and I think I snapped some winners.  The cathedral is dark and foreboding, and I hope the pics convey that sense.  Now, to occupy some space, let's highlight some of the beers experienced thus far.  Yea? Yea!
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PRAGUE:  Gambrinus, legendary King of Flanders and unofficial patron saint of beer brewing.  Gambrinus is the most popular beer in the Czech Republic, sponsors the nation's soccer league, and can be found on every street corner.  The pilsner beer offers exceptional drinkability, a substantial body, and at $1 for half-liter, always a good time.


PRAGUE/VIENNA:  Budweiser, the original, and king of all pilsners in Europe.  This is the principle beer hailing from the Czech area known as Budweis.  The region is near the Austrian border, so this delightful pilsner holds a substantial fan base in both countries.  Try not to confuse this with the Anheuser-Busch fare in the States, as the locals will become quite enraged.

BERLIN:  BERLINER PILSNER, classic German-style pilsner, that is far too easy to drink, and equally easy on the wallet.  This beer goes perfect with a beer garden and a bockwurst laid across a paper plate.  Remember, always cheers before drinking, with elbows up, and never forget to look your compatriot straight in the eyes while doing so.



No surprises here, as the older I get, the lighter the beer I enjoy.  Never have I felt beer to be so refreshing as during this trip.

READING:  Democracy and Education, John Dewey

LISTENING:  

Berlin, Germany--Part 2

Berlin, Germany--Part 2

First Off:

TIP OF THE DAY:  Follow your own tips of the day.  God damn it!! Just yesterday, I said never go on tour group pub crawls.  Of course, last night, I get roped into another one.  


However, last night's was the best thus far, and was titled the "alternative" Berlin pub crawl.  The crawl took us to holes in the wall, converted cellars, goth clubs, and the highlight, a ping pong bar.  This converted Cold War store front was utterly undistinguishable from street, and the color of the walls was unrecognizable due to the profound level of graffiti.

The bar was a converted kitchen, and I imagined where I stood to order once housed stools where simple East Berliners took in their meager breakfasts.  A young woman of barely 100 lb. spins records with a calculating stare, analyzing the tourists that have infiltrated her refuge.  The bar consists of only one tried and true ping pong table and a few milk crates of weathered paddles.  A flickering fluorescent bulb dangles above, and a tired cigarette machine stands as the lone sentinel in the corner.

The game played is simply addicting, and involves everyone in the establishment.  The game starts with 25 anxious people surrounding the table with paddles in hand.  Someone initiates the volley, and the crowd revolves around the table, in turn, whacking the ball to whomever happens to be on the other side.  The goal is to never let the volley end, and those who make mistakes, by either missing their shot or opportunity, are forced to sit out.  One by one, the crowd diminishes to a skillful and feverish group, and soon players are sprinting around the table.

Soon, after a heated process of elimination, only two players remain, and the many vanquished are left to watch the finalists duel in a traditional game to seven points.  The whole scheme of the place was marvelous in its simplicity.  There were some beers in a cooler, a couple bottles of booze dotting the counter, and not one sign to be found inside or out.  I felt like I was in some outlawed swing joint, where every night the operators packed up and moved to a different and abandoned location--evading some persistent authority.  Dr. Pong it was called.

LISTENING:  This one's about two lovers form opposite sides of the wall.  I don't know.  The older I get, the more I think David Bowie is pretty great.  I like how he plays with cultural norms, and his role in Zoolander helps too.

GRAFFITI AND YOU:  The Berlin Wall


What I like about Berlin so much is how tangible the history feels.  The countless events are burned in my memory, and walking down streets, I can feel where blockades, checkpoints, and destruction used to be.  Certainly, this feeling culminates with the Berlin Wall.  One excerpt is consistent.  "No more wars.  No more walls."